Not so long ago I wrote an article on thermally insulating an old house. Just like a fireplace, the interior of the house presents one or more heat sources. And. ultimately, much of the fuel used to heat the interior is wasted if the house doesn’t have proper insulation. The same principle applies to the fireplaces, more so if they are ”the” heat source of a room. So into the fray, we delve once again, today’s topic: how to thermally insulate a fireplace.

Types of fireplaces

Fireplaces are something whose spirit and atmosphere are incredibly hard, by any means, to replicate. They exude a kind of feel that nothing can beat on a cold, rainy, or snowy day. Although, there is a recurring trend nowadays. Many old houses have had their fireplaces removed by their owners in order to switch to a more modern lifestyle. However, many have found out afterward that it simply isn’t the same without them, so they go to reinstall them.

The thing is that times have changed and, more diverse types of fireplaces have emerged on the market. This diversity ranges from construction materials to the types of fuel used for burning. But, ultimately, the results are always the same: a cozy, burning flame and hopefully, not the house.

Wood Burning Fireplaces

• Traditional open fireplaces
• Zero-clearance/enclosed fireplaces
• Fireplace inserts
• Wood burning stoves

Gas Burning Fireplaces

• Direct-vented built-in fireplaces
• Ventless built-in fireplaces

Ethanol Burning Fireplaces

• Fireplace conversion
• Wall-mounted fireplaces
• Tabletop fireplaces

Electric Fireplaces

• Mantel electric fireplaces
• Electric fireplace TV stands & entertainment centers

About fireplaces and why they require insulation

The insulation of a fireplace is critical for the safety and comfort of your home, but there are specific ways to do so even if it means not making the prettiest bonfire around. And hear me out. You would think that insulating the inside of the wall around the chimney vent is the way to do it. Remember the bonfire? This is how you get bonfires. These materials, due to being mostly dry, are also incredibly flammable. Thus, they should never come into direct contact with the vent pipe.

Most of the types of fireplaces mentioned above are modern in nature; thus, they were designed with thermal insulation in mind. This means that most of them already come with closable panels that act as protection from the outside cold when unused. What I will be talking about today will be the classic masonry type and the zero clearance type due to their similarities. The reason I will talk only about the two is that most the other types are either similar or come to win incorporated insulation.

Why is insulation so important?

Fireplaces, despite being lovely as they are, are incredibly inefficient. Fire results in heat and heat mean energy, and you and I both know that energy (in this case heat) isn’t prone to stay in place.

When burning, warmth, heated air, gasses, and other pollutants exit the chimney into the atmosphere. Despite heating the inside of the house, once it has cooled off, it will automatically start to draw out the heated air. This gradually will cool off the house overnight, making it colder than in the beginning.

The problem is that you cannot simply ”resolve” this issue by closing the damper, especially if there are embers still burning. This will place you at risk of suffocating with carbon monoxide. On the other hand, keeping it open will allow more warmth to leave the chimney. Doomed if you do, doomed if you don’t. But, don’t worry because there is a solution for insulating your fireplace.

How to insulate

1.    Classic masonry chimney

Fireplaces, due to being integrated into the structural design of the house, are pretty impossible to remove; that is without causing crippling damage to structural integrity. However, there are ways around this. There are products on the market specifically designed to insulate those old fireplaces properly without you having to remove them.

Take note that for the classic type, insulation actually means: ”how to insulate when not using it”?

Ways to do it:

• Purchase a fireplace sealer. There are three types out there:
  • Balloon-shaped sealer
  • Fireplace plug
  • Decorative cover

Balloon-shaped sealer

The balloon-shaped sealer is a balloon-shaped, inflatable seal that comes in any size required by your household chimney. It acts as a giant vacuum that sucks all the air out of your home. Remember what I told you earlier about energy and heat loss?

Now, these sealers reverse the process entirely. They suck out the cold air while simultaneously blocking the chimney from allowing warm air to escape. This also means that no cold air will enter. Furthermore, it will stop anything from the outside from entering uninvited like debris, Santa, and dead squirrels.

For its best use, make sure to install it either above the damper or at the bottom of the smoke shelf.

Fireplace plug

A fireplace plug is similar to the balloon sealer in function and design, despite being rectangular rather than round. More precisely, it is an inflatable urethane plug that is easy to install, preferably under the damper level. It works with most fireplaces and can be installed in less than 5 minutes.

It works by having 5 little areas that can be cut to provide an opening for the damper handle. Once it is inflated, it will seal itself around the damper handle, thus sealing the opening.

Decorative cover

A decorative cover is less a commercial commodity and more a personal matter of customization. Namely, you can either buy a metal panel fitted somehow (screws, magnets, etc.) to the metal screen of the fireplace, or you work with an improvised similar solution. Avoid rubber and other materials that can create deadly circumstances from heat and gasses. Metal should be your go-to genre of insulation (get it?).

2.    Zero clearance fireplace

Due to being pre-manufactured, more efficient, and designed much better than their classic counterpart, they are easier to install/take apart. This is because their building materials eliminate the need for a buffer zone, allowing it to fit much better in tighter spaces. Regardless, they will need to be properly insulated for them to function at maximum capacity. This is how you do it:

Materials and tools required

• High-temperature caulk
• Caulk gun
• Silicone caulk
• Spray foam
• Batt insulation
• House wrap
• Construction stapler
• Construction staplers
• Screws (2-inch ones)
• Screw gun
• Plywood
• Circular saw
• Stapler

To achieve proper insulation, you will need to follow 4 simple steps:

Step 1

First, you have to take the precise measurements of the chase and recess of the fireplace ventilation shaft. This will tell you how much plywood you need to cut in order to fill the outside space of the chimney case. After, screw it, preferably with 2-inch screws (optimal length), while making sure that each piece fits tightly with each other.

Then, you have to take out the caulk (the silicone variant) and apply it vertically on the seams. Follow by installing the batt insulation to the underside of the chase with a stapler. From your remaining plywood, cut out a section able to fit under the chase and attach it with some screws. Finish up by applying caulk to the seams around the bottom of the chase area.

Step 2

Second, you have to address the issue regarding the outside of the fireplace chase. To do that, you have to take a continuous piece of house wrap and wrap it (duh) outside of the fire chase. After wrapping, make sure to secure it with some construction level staples. Make sure that every corner and inch has been sufficiently covered, including the underside of the chase’s belly. Once again, follow up by finishing off the joints and the sidings with caulk.

This process is necessary for you to be able to install any exterior sidings of your choice. Because let us be fair, looks and function are separate, but boy do ugly fireplaces not function the same.

Step 3

Third, it is now time to take out the batt insulation and attach it between the studs inside of the fireplace. It is advisable that you do this before the drywall and the fireplace units are installed. Install the drywall and, if necessary, this is when you should install the gas and electric facilities, but do not install the fireplace yet.

Step 4

Finally, caulk the remaining seams in the drywall, as well as the places it will connect with the floor and ceiling. For good measure, make sure to foam-spray the gas and electric pipes/lines to protect them. Finish up by applying the high-temperature caulk to the wall thimbles. And this should do it.

In conclusion

Ultimately, nobody can deny the importance of proper chimney insulation. Not only will it save you from a steep expenditure on fuel and heating, but it also will probably save your life. Remember that if left unchecked, fires present great risks to your personal safety and your belongings. So make sure to insulate your chimney today because you must always keep in mind that ‘Winter Is Coming’.

Other useful resources:

• https://dengarden.com/home-improvement/How-to-seal-an-unused-fireplace-and-save-on-heating-bills
• https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/35719/how-can-i-insulate-my-fireplace-when-its-not-in-use
• https://homeguides.sfgate.com/insulate-zeroclearance-fireplace-20109.html
• https://www.hunker.com/12003275/what-kind-of-insulation-to-use-around-my-heatilator-gas-fireplace

But depending on where you, the reader, come from, many houses around where that is could/should actually be quite old. One of the biggest problems is that old houses are more vulnerable to the cold and cold ”leakages”. Today’s construction materials are leagues ahead of what builders used many years ago. Due to this reason, many old residences suffer from heat-loss and overall increased expenditures because of it.

There was once a time when it was socially acceptable to cover your house inside-out with hay for top-notch insulation, outside of rural areas of course. And unless you wish to take inspiration from the Russians and their infamous wall carpets, you must invest in good-quality insulation. That is why I am here. Welcome to today’s lesson on how to insulate an old house.

Materials used for insulation

Expanding foam

Made from open- or closed-cell polyurethane (a plastic) or special cement, it goes from soft to solid, filling all the empty spaces it encounters. Thus, it has evolved to be the most common way of insulating the interiors of walls worldwide.

Costs: expect it to come at about $1-2.50 per square foot.

Batts

No, hanging down a colony of bats from your roof will not help you with insulation. And neither will Batman. I am talking here about batt insulation. You know, the one that looks like cotton candy and which you shouldn’t eat at any costs. They are the best option for rooftops due to their density and effectiveness. However, when handling it, wear a full mask, goggles, long sleeves, and gloves, as the mineral wool can irritate the skin.

Costs: range from $0.50 (basic fiberglass and mineral wool batts) to $3 (wool) per square foot.

Loose fill

Imagine oversized, puffy, insulating Tic-Tacs. They are dry bits of insulation that are blown into wall cavities through small holes, either from the inside or outside. It is made either from fiberglass, cellulose, or mineral wool. It is the most eco-friendly of the bunch and is also the cheapest. Ultimately, this also means that it is also not the best option for long-term investment.

Costs: expect about $1-1.50 per square foot when blown from the inside or about $2 when blown from the outside.

Spray-on fiber

A close relative of the loose fill, however in a more liquid state. It is best used on surfaces and with studs that haven’t yet been dry-walled or plastered properly. This is the best solution when faced with numerous cracks and studs as its cellulose and fiberglass components will ensure full coverage. This is also a very good solution for old houses, as it can cover the walls fully.

Costs: expect about $0.40 to $0.50 more than loose fill.

Rigid panels

These are boards made from extruded polystyrene or polyisocyanurate foam that are best used for insulating the exterior of your house, especially when it comes to covering the studs (weak insulation spots). They are best used on the outside in warmer and humid climates as they also can be effective vapor barriers. On the contrary, they are best used for interiors in colder climates as they can stop the warmth from leaving through the walls.

Costs: expect about $10 for a 4 by 8 foot/1 inch-thick sheet.

The process of insulation

In this article, I will be talking mostly about foam insulation as it is the best there is. Why? It doesn’t affect your old home substantially, and it is energy-efficient, not messy, the cheapest, and provides sound insulation. There are also other methods, and I might return to talk about them in the future. Also, take notice of your climate. The foam will behave entirely different in cold areas than it does in warm/hot ones.

In regards to the process itself, it is best to do so from the top to bottom. This way, due to its ”foamy” (no-pun-intended) nature, it will distribute and flow equally through the crevices of the walls.

The attic

This is where most of the heat escapes to as everyone who understands basic physics knows. Thus, it is only natural that it should be the place to start from. However, despite being the most important part to insulate, it is also the easiest. Especially if your attic is one of those ”Attic? I have one?” types that haven’t been touched since its creation.

If you consider investing in it, the best course of action would be batt-insulation. It looks cumbersome and somewhat ugly, but hey!, since when has the attic become a place for social meetings?

First, you ought to measure the roof rafters. The nice thing about this is that the bigger, the better. By that, I mean that the bigger the rafters, the more (and thicker) batt-insulation you can fit. You have to make sure that the measurements are correct as the rafters might not be equal in size. Be warned though. There is a basic principle to apply here which is to never compact any used insulation material. This is because any insulation material loses its properties when it is compacted. Make sure that it is installed in a manner that allows it to remain light and fluffy.

After you are done with insulating with batt-insulation, it would be silly to leave it unfinished. That is why the next course of action is to reinforce it by blowing in cellulose insulation on the floor. This will make sure to keep the warmth under it in place and the one in the attic circling.

When it comes to cracks and small spaces, best fill them with either caulk or good old foam.

The walls

This is where the party starts. One of the biggest issues when insulating an old house is ”How to do it without tearing my plaster/old brick walls down?” Don’t worry though, it is achievable. In the case of very old houses, you should go to an expert who can tell you how to do it properly. And more importantly, if you can. Old houses have a nasty tendency of being actually old. Under certain circumstances, this can result in walls full of rot and mold if the process is done without taking the proper precautions.

Otherwise, and in most cases, your greatest friend will be the good old foam insulation compound. The process will be a slow and tedious one, but with patience, care, and lots of drilled holes, it is achievable.

Furthermore, most old houses present double or triple stud walls. This will make the process even harder, as it will be even harder to drill. Aside from that, the process of insulating the exterior is pretty much the same with old and new houses. However, you should take into account the integrity of the building materials used for the exterior. For the outside of the wall, go for rigid panels. For the inside of the wall, go for injectable foam.

However, and especially in the case of incredibly old houses, the best course of option might be to not do it at all. In such cases, their sorry state and old materials are not guaranteed to last through such a process without falling apart. In such cases, simply leave them untouched and invest in a proper floor and attic insulation. After all, they are the main actors when it comes to heat retention and protection from cold in a household.

The floor

Next to the attic, the floor is the most important part of the house that requires proper insulation. Also, it is incredibly easy to do since, unlike the walls, it doesn’t risk falling off.

This is especially true if the house comes with a basement. In that case, the process will be similar to the attic insulation one. The problem is that, unlike the attic, the basement’s ”roof” is not as wide and easy flowing as the proper attic. This means that the process will be particularly slow in tight places. However, once it is finished and unless something really bad happens, it will last you for a very long time indeed with all-year-round heat retention.

If you are going for the batt insulation, you should take into account the pest issue. Those little buggers have a nasty tendency to not know that batt is not cotton candy and; thus, they chew it. The best counter to them is to install rodent-proof wire screens around all openings towards the crawling spaces. Rodent-proof the crawl space first and only then start insulating.

As of how to do it, the steps are simple. First, take the necessary measurements and cut the batt insulation to the exact requirements. Again, remember to not compact it as it will lose its abilities if compacted. After, install the insulation with the vapor barrier facing upwards. If both of the house floors are heated, use un-faced insulation.

Conclusion

Winter is coming and you need to be prepared. Insulating a house is a costly endeavor and especially when reinforcing an old one. But, in the end, it doesn’t even matter. Remember, any investments made now will benefit you, your house, and your wallet in the long-term. Until next time, have a good one.

One solution is to mount the water pump on a concrete square block as that would be heavy enough to dampen the vibrations and reduce the noise.

Fiberboards

Fiberboards are divided according to their apparent weight in two main categories: insulating boards and hard boards. Fiberboards can be cut with regular carpentry tools.

Fibrous materials
The most commonly used fibrous material in construction is mineral wool.

Mineral wool 

This is made up of very thin, glassy, impregnated and threaded fibers. It is obtained by steam blowing at a pressure of 6-8 atmospheres of an acidic metallurgical slag melt or siliceous mineral rocks.

Mineral wool is fire-resistant and won’t be attacked by rodents and microorganisms. It gets squeezed/pressed over time and has high resistance to water absorption. The maximum use temperature is 600 degrees Celsius, so it can be used in most applications without problems.

Mineral wool can be used as thermal insulation for walls or industrial equipment and thermal pipes as well as for soundproofing walls. It is used in acoustic treatments too because it’s a good sound-absorbing material.

Mineral wool

Materials List:

• Concrete block
• MLV or fiberboard
• 3M spray adhesive
• PVA glue, hide glue, or epoxy
• Weather-stripping tape
• Anti-vibration pad
• Rock wool /mineral wool

For room soundproofing materials, please see the suggestions page for this post.

Water pump and box maintenance

The first time you install the box, check the temperature inside to see it doesn’t go too high. Some water pumps can produce a lot of heat, and the box keeps it inside very well.

Also, make sure you do regular maintenance of the pump especially if the noise level increases. Some water pump parts need lubrication. Check all parts to see they are tightened well and replace old parts if they are broken or loose.

Conclusion

If you don’t want your water pump to sound like in the video below, you may want to soundproof it. Soundproofing a water pump is usually an afternoon project, and it shouldn’t take too long if you have all the materials and tools. First, make sure that the water pump is installed correctly. The most important thing to avoid is the contact surface between the wall and the water pump or the water pump box. Also, follow the advice and install it in the basement. Following these simple tips, you can enjoy a quiet and peaceful place.

It could be that you live near the railway or a busy highway. Maybe your neighbors are the kind to hold parties 24/7, or you want to keep the noise in your house from distracting the neighbors. Different people have different reasons for wanting to soundproof their homes. But how sure are you that the soundproofing method you choose is going to work? Is it going to be too much for nothing, or will you end up patting yourself on the back for a job well done? Here are a few questions and ideas to steer you in the right direction in matters of soundproofing.

Does soundproofing a room with egg cartons work?

The straightforward answer is a big No! Why? Many assume that because of how egg cartons are shaped they resemble materials used in music studios, for instance, to limit noise.

However, this is not the case. Egg cartons are great at reducing echo but do a very poor job of reducing noise both from the inside or outside of a room. Egg cartons work better to help with soundproofing as a booster, but egg cartons alone do little to nothing to reduce the level of noise.

Can you soundproof a room with cup holders?

Cup holders work pretty much just like egg cartons do at soundproofing. They will reduce echo which can easily be done by adding cushioned furniture, bookshelves, and rugs, but as far as keeping noise from coming in or going out, cup holders are hopeless. It has been reported numerous times that it is quite risky to use cup holders for anything in your house owing to their tendencies to quickly catch fire.

Can I soundproof a room with no door?

The short answer is Yes! Using very heavy velvet or cotton curtains to block the entrance to a room can help reflect or block the noise to a certain level. However, this doesn’t mean that it can help to completely soundproof a room. Note that curtains have gaps and spaces near the edges of the walls where sound can slip through. It is advisable to use two layers of heavy curtains and be sure any gaps, spaces, and hard surfaces are covered to help significantly reduce noise. Remember these are areas that are conducive for bouncing back noise.

Can you soundproof a room with windows?

It is possible to soundproof a room with windows. Provided you seal off all air gaps with acoustic sealant or with thick insulation tape, then you will notice a significant reduction in the amount of noise coming from outside. For a room with windows to be effectively soundproofed, one must also consider soundproofing the walls near the window. Here you can use soundproofing tape or acoustic panels to cover the top bottom and both sides which make part of the wall surrounding the window.

Black colored soundproofing curtains also help in keeping noise out to grant you the privacy and silence you yearn for. Keep in mind, however, that your efforts may be shadowed if the window is in a bad state. If the window has cracked glass or its frames are falling apart, you may need to first consider repairing the window before embarking on soundproofing efforts.

Can you soundproof existing walls?

Soundproofing an existing wall is quite doable, but it is not as easy as you think. You can opt for

• Acoustical wallpaper
• Special paint
• Sound curtains
• Insulation
• Adding another layer of drywall.

All these are effective methods of limiting noise. However, some of the methods work better than others. For instance, Special paint reduces noise by 30 percent while wallpaper does a much better job of 75 percent noise reduction. Alternatively, insulating a wall with cellulose or fiberglass gives you better soundproofing than two layers of sound curtains would. Sound curtains fail to cover spaces and gaps, which noise can use to reflect hence poor soundproofing.

What are the other options that do not work?

While looking to keep noise out and silence in, people end up using odd methods that end up aggravating the problem or posing a fire hazard. Examples of poor soundproofing methods include:

Sawdust- Filling your walls with sawdust is a very bad idea. Besides posing a very dangerous fire hazard, sawdust is pretty much waste from wood. Wood is an excellent conductor of sound which makes the noise even worse.

Bedding-It could be anything from pillows, mattresses, or sleeping bags that people like nailing on walls, stuffing under the sink, or using to block crevices. Well, if you think about the amount of mildew, dust, and mold you are about to share your home with and the stench that comes with it, you’d rather learn how to live with all the noise any day.

Rugs and carpets-The image of carpets and rugs hung up on walls and ceilings is unsightly and an unimaginable idea of soundproofing in this day and age. However, as awkwardly hilarious as it may be, some people actually go for it. It is no wonder the same people have swollen sinuses and colds all the time. What with all that dust, it is a miracle that they are still breathing.

How can I reduce noise in a room?

There are many ways you can reduce noise without spending a fortune. For instance,

. Use thick curtains or drapes instead of sheer curtains to cover your windows
. Cover the floors with carpets and rugs
. Place your furniture against outside walls or shared walls
. Limit and turn off all electronic or noise-making appliances that are not in use

What real options do I have to soundproof a room?

There are numerous other superb options for soundproofing a room that are inexpensive and do not pose a risk or hazard. A few of them are

• Drywall
• Insulation
• Damping compound
• Sound curtains
• Acoustical sealant

What is the best material for soundproofing a room?

There are soundproofing materials that are fine and then there are amazing soundproofing materials. Some of the best materials include

• Damped drywall
• Pocket-friendly acoustical panels
• Foams specially crafted to isolate sound
• Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV)
• Sound deadening fiberboard

Can I soundproof a room with a DIY guide?

On the condition that you are using a guide written from a credible source and you follow all the steps exactly as they are laid out, it is possible to soundproof your room by using a DIY guide. In fact, most people prefer DIY projects because they are cost-effective and rewarding if done right.

Conclusion

Unwanted noise has been found to cause high blood pressure, insomnia, and often times leads to depression. Finding a professional to help you soundproof a room is advisably much better than doing it yourself if you are unsure. However, if you are short on money, aim to divide the soundproofing project into several phases, and start with the most difficult tasks. Progress slowly down to the simplest phase. This way, you only take up as much as you can financially while using quality soundproofing materials.