When you decide to soundproof a room inside your home or office, you need to pay attention to a few aspects.

Whether you choose rockwool or fiberglass to do the job, it needs to do more than block the sound. Fire codes and sustainability have to be included in the process.

Both materials give value to your project and come with benefits as well as drawbacks. We will discuss their particular characteristics and potential next steps. This way you can make an informed decision.

Is rockwool or fiberglass your material of choice?

Proper soundproofing will determine the quality of your environment. Whether in your home, office, or recording studio, preventing sound from causing damage is essential. But which one is a better option?

Soundproofing

They are both effective in reducing sound pollution and noise. Due to a greater density and weight, rockwool does a slightly better job in blocking sound.

Installation of the material and its quality contribute to the quality of soundproofing, but the density of rockwool helps reduce sound transmission of ~ 10 decibels through a wall. Fiberglass, on the other hand, blocks ~ 4 to 10 decibels.

Application

The fiber batts that compose the materials make the installation fairly easy. They can be included in interior walls without altering building structures.

Generally, to install any of the two, you need a hammer, stapler, cutting tool, and protective gear. The batts are pre-cut to size and fit into different cavities.

The temperature at installation is not relevant. They are flexible, can be refitted and reused, and require little time. Clean-ups are no headache, but you should be careful when handling fiberglass. The small particles of glass that come out when cutting it can cause work accidents.

Cost

Rockwool is more expensive than fiberglass.

Fiberglass costs around $0.50 per square foot ($5 per square meter). Rockwool is valued at ~ $1.3 per square feet ($13 per square meter) on the market.

When it comes to price, you need to consider the area you want to soundproof and its purpose. Rockwool is denser and does a better proofing job. Fiberglass can be added in layers to obtain a better effect. However, adding layers means buying more material.

In the end, you need to compare the cost and efficiency ratio and decide on your investment.

Structure

Fiberglass is made out of fine strands of woven glass that come in rolls or blankets of material. The shape and size variety makes it fit into any wall cavities.

Rockwool has a similar structure, only the fibers are stone-made. Its gap filling properties and adaptability to spaces and structures is quite similar.

Sustainability

Both materials are eco-friendly. However, rockwool comes packed with 75% recyclable contents. Fiberglass contains on average 20-30% recyclable components according to the U.S. Department of Energy.

Fire safety

Rockwool and fiberglass alike are mineral-sourced materials. Their response to heat and fire hazards is a big advantage. Neither is flammable, and they don’t sustain fire or help it spread either. But, due to its higher density, rockwool is more resistant than fiberglass.

Rockwool can withstand temperatures of up to 1000° C (1800° F), while fiberglass melts around 600° C (1100° F). Rockwool would be a more efficient choice for fire protection.

R-Value (Thermal properties)

The R-value measures the thermal resistance of a wall. A material with a higher value will be better at controlling the heat transfer. If you plan to add thermic insulation to your room as well, consider this:

Fiberglass has an R-value of 2.2 – 2.7 per inch, while rockwool has an index of 3.0 – 3.3 per inch. This makes rockwool a little better at insulating than fiberglass.

General use of rockwool and fiberglass

Both materials are versatile and popular choices among constructors. Fiberglass has a longer history than its opponent with application in numerous industries. However, rockwool doesn’t shy away from adapting to various purposes.

Rockwool

Insulation is rockwool’s main use. You can use it to insulate:

• exterior & interior walls – good for different structures, steel or wood stud walls. Good for exterior walls with various systems such as cavity walls, curtain walls, rain screens, wood, or metal frames.
• ceilings – the material is adaptable and can be used in ceilings as diverse as church arches, ceilings with wooden frames, or other designs.
• floors – steel stud, wooden framed, or under the slab, you name it. Rockwool can fit in and properly insulate.
• roofs & attics – by insulating the roof and/or attic, you save energy by minimizing the heat loss during cold seasons.
• industrial insulation
• marine insulation

Other efficient uses:

• soundproofing – media rooms, music studios, etc.
• plant growth – widely used as soil for plants, it comes in different forms and sizes. Cubes are used for starting seeds and germinating. It allows the air to flow in and out and is strong enough to offer support for the roots. It is lightweight, and it can be reused and has a natural pH that stimulated plant growth.

It is well-suited for spaces oriented to the north side of a building that tends to be colder.

Fiberglass

Thanks to its durability, safety profile, and good thermal properties, fiberglass is going into a wide range of industries and products. Here are some of the applications for this versatile material:

• Chemical industry –anti-slip safety feature and resistance to different chemical compounds.
• Marine industry – protection against corrosion, rust, and general damage caused by the salty water.
• Food processing – used in chicken and beef factories for grating.
• Carwashes – used for its resistance to rust and for creating color contrast. Cars look cleaner when getting out of the carwash tunnel.
• Beverage industry – used in brewing and bottling lines of the production.
• Cooling towers – used to keep people away from the danger zones.  Anti-rust for the mechanical parts that are always wet.
• Power plants – because it is non-conductive, fiberglass is used in power generating industries for safety.
• Automotive, aerospace, & defense – various body parts and components are made out of fiberglass.

Fiberglass can offer valuable support in terms of safety, protection, isolation, or waste reduction. All these features make it a go-to material that is also affordable.

What is rockwool?

Also known as stone or mineral wool, rockwool is an organic material obtained from stones or rocks. This explains the name as well.

How it’s made: Natural rock is heated up to 3000 degrees until it melts. The magma-looking liquid goes through a high-pressure air or steam jet. Then, you obtain fiber strands through a process of high-speed spinning. Imagine cotton candy machines, only bigger and stronger. Finally, the fiber strands are compressed into thick and dense mats cut into panels of rockwool batts. That’s the simplified version!

Characteristics

Acoustic capabilities

Very high performance with sound reduction. Rockwool has a porous structure that absorbs sound efficiently. It can isolate and control the noise and vibrations coming from various sources (airports, trams, trains, music, etc.). The high density of the material blocks the airflow that carries noise, making even the noisiest environments bearable.

Fire resilience

Retains heat and prevents fire from spreading. It is a resilient material, and it does not produce toxic emissions of smoke or other residues. Rockwool meets the fire safety criteria.

Thermal properties

Very good at keeping the heat in. The air is retained due to the small pockets of air inside the structure. In summer, it keeps the hot air out. In winter, it keeps the warm air in.

Breathability

Lets the moisture circulate. It can retain water or let it escape, depending on your needs. Good ventilation prevents mold and mildew formation, thus making for a healthy environment.

Sustainability

100% organic, made out of natural, raw materials. Also, the content is up to 75% recyclable.

Fitting

Dense material with firm batts that allow sealing of air gaps. You don’t need any stapling and can cut it to size for any type of structure.

What is fiberglass?

As the name suggests, fiberglass is obtained from glass. It is basically reinforced glass fibers that molded into various shapes.

How it’s made

 The glass is heated until it melts. Then, the molten glass is pushed through tiny holes to create thin filaments. These tiny threads are then woven into larger patches of material or left in bulks of less structured material.

The fiberglass can have resins added to it for strength and made into different shapes and forms. You can get fiberglass in sheets, mats, panels, or custom-made. It depends on the purpose.

Characteristics

Acoustic properties

It is a very good sound blocking qualities. It is packed with tiny air pockets that trap the sound and prevent it from getting through. A sheet of fiberglass as thin as 5 cm (2 inches) can cancel noise coming from train tracks.

Fire safety

Made of a mineral material. Because of its nature, it does not ignite and keeps the fire from spreading. When exposed to heat, it doesn’t create toxic emissions.

Durability & strength

has a long lifespan. From a mechanical point of view, the material is highly resistant. It can surpass steel and performs well with temperature variations. It doesn’t change size or shape under different temperatures.

Thermal properties

is a popular and efficient choice for thermal insulation. The tiny air pockets in its structure do a great job retaining hot air and preventing heat from getting out.

Sustainability

Made out of natural minerals and is eco-friendly. Its content is high in recyclable and renewable material that has a positive impact on our carbon footprint. It can be removed and reinstalled, and it produces more energy than it takes to make it.

Fitting

Is one of the most versatile materials. It can be cut into any size or shape and fitted into stud walls or any type of structure.

Other soundproofing materials

The market provides us with many options for our sound reducing needs. Because of their various uses and structures, these materials cannot fall under only one category. Some are good at absorbing the sound and some have dampening qualities, while others can cancel the noise altogether.

Acoustic foam

Effective with absorbing sound. It comes in various forms: panels for walls, baffles for ceilings, or corner set-ups that act as bass traps.

Acoustic panels/boards

A variation of acoustic foam. They act as decorative sound-absorbing accessories. Easy to apply, they range in colors and patterns and ideal for minimal noise reduction in any room.

Acoustic fabrics/curtains

Thick and dense fabrics most often used in movie and theater halls.

Acoustic coatings

Made out of a dense rubber material (Mass Loaded Vinyl). They act as sound barriers installed in cars or appliances as an underlayment.

Drywall

It is a common material used to keep sound at bay. Soundproof drywall is a combination of layers that contain gypsum or steel to increase density.

Resilient Channels

Rails of sheet metal designed to wall studs and ceiling joists. It traps the sound and redirects it, instead of going straight through the wall.

What is soundproofing?

Firstly, you need to ask yourself what is the result you want to accomplish.

Sound moves through the air. This means that, in order to reduce it, we need to fill in the air space more between our room and other noise sources.

Insulation comes in at this stage to reduce the transfer of sound through the air.

The material used determines how much sound will vibrate and then pass through to the other side. Depending on the structure of your walls, both fiberglass and rock wool can be adapted to fit in.

Conclusion

Soundproofing is quite controversial and no expert could state plain and clear what is a better choice. Both fiberglass and rockwool are great at blocking sound. Plus, they are easy to use, sustainable, and comply with safety dynamics. What will it be?

I am one of those people who can’t stand noises when sleeping. If it rains and you are trying to sleep in one of those vehicles, bad luck. It is a minor problem but very annoying. That’s why in this article I’m going to present to you how to stop or at least decrease rain noises on a caravan or RV roof.

How bad do you need this?

Before you go ahead and start buying or crafting stuff, you must ask yourself some questions. Number one and the most important is: how much does this bother me? Depending on each one of us, some even find the rain hitting the roof very relaxing and a reason they fall asleep easily.

However, a lot of people find this a complete torture, a motive why they can’t sleep for hours and hours.

If you are one of those people in the second group, go ahead and answer the second question: how much money am I willing to spend on this? If you own a caravan or RV and this problem kills your sleep or any other important activity, you are going to have to spend some money or even take some days off in order to craft or install some materials.

You do need to understand that nothing will erase this problem completely. If you are okay with that, we can go the next step in our guide: the options.

What options do you have?

Already sorted by how effective they are, the options would be: earplugs, headphones, installing memory foam 1 inch over the roof, and the Silent Roof.

Earplugs

A good option if you are on a budget is earplugs. Although they are the least effective on this list, they can really make your life a little bit easier. However, that is only if you don’t just rush into the nearest Walmart and buy the cheapest ones. You need to find some quality earplugs.

I would recommend the BetterSleep earplugs, as they offer a lot for very cheap. They have some great features for $13. Each pack has 4 pairs, and they are not only for sleeping. You can use this while swimming, studying, snoring, attending concerts, and more.

They can block up to 22 dB of sound while being super comfortable. They don’t have the usual form; they are round in order to stay in while sleeping on your side. Also, they can mold to your specific ear canal, so you don’t have to find your size. According to most Amazon reviews, it is a very interesting product that is worth trying. I will leave a link to it here.

Noise-canceling headphones

The second option would be headphones. Some people love falling asleep while some calming music is playing. They are a really good investment because you can use them everywhere for recreational purposes, not only for sleeping.

More and more come with a noise-canceling function which makes them perfect in this case. Although they are pretty expensive, keep in mind this is going to be a 1-time investment, headphones like this last for years and years of usage.

Below is the link to the most powerful Bose noise-canceling headphones yet. They also are wireless, so you don’t mess with any wires while sleeping. I will not tell you all the features this set has because it would take me a lot, and this isn’t a headphone guide.

The very least you can do is trust me and over 1,656 reviews on Amazon. The link to it is here.

Foam on the roof

The next option is memory foam. Installing this 1 inch over the roof will definitely make your sleep better. Again, this is not going to fix the problem completely, but you will feel the difference. The drops of rain will be absorbed and decrease the sound of it.

The bad part about this material is the drying time. After a long rain, this is basically going to be completely water-logged. You don’t want anything this wet in your van, so you’re going to have to throw it out and install the next piece from the roll in case another rain is coming.

Fortunately, you can buy one piece of it with 2″ x 24″ x 72″ dimensions for $40. It is thick and multi-functional, can even be used for the bed. The bad news starts when it is a rainy season. You can’t just have 10 pieces of this laying in your RV just because you don’t stand raindrop sounds.

That is going to take a lot of money and space. Consider this a good option when you check the weather and there will be some rain. You can buy this from Amazon as well. Check the current price here.

The last option we’re going to talk about is also the most effective one. If you want a serious and effective choice, it’s the Silent Roof. Why is that? Because it is a product made for this kind of situation, and that makes it the best one. In our opinion, this is the only real and almost perfect solution to the “rain” problem.

How is the Silent Roof made?

The Silent Roof material acts as a barrier to the falling rain, and it is made from 3-dimensional matting produced from polyamide monofilaments welded together where they cross to form a tough open structure. It has a flat back on one side that faces uppermost towards the falling rain.

Another big advantage is its size and weight. It consists of a small section of the material, 6 inches (15 cm) square, and the thickness of the matting is 0.6 inches (17mm). The weight is going to blow your mind. Only 1.75 pounds (800 grams) per square meter.

How it works, how long does it take to install and how do you clean it?

It is a very simple but effective procedure. The Translucent Sound Reducing System is manufactured from a softer open structure durable material that deadens the impact of the rain and does not transmit the sound through the roof. The results will amaze you. The rain falling will sound like whispers. Even more, it acts as a shield for your roof panels and will keep them from falling debris.

The cleaning of it is even easier. You just treat it like any other roof material, usually with liquid detergent and water. Before the Silent Roof is installed, their team is going to clean off your existing roof with a specially formulated biodegradable detergent. This is something that must be done every year just to keep everything safe and cleaned.

Installation shouldn’t take more than a day, depending on the sizes of your RV. However, it must be done by professionals. Once you choose this option, you need to contact the sellers, and they will help you through everything.

Conclusion

In conclusion, as you can see, sometimes a little problem like this can give you a lot of headaches. It is up to you to decide how many hours and dollars you want to spend on fixing it. I’ve presented to you more solutions, from very cheap ones that require a few clicks to order, to much more complicated choices that are more effective as well.

Now that I’ve told and talked about my opinions, it is time for you to tell me yours. How did you deal with rain noise on caravan or RV roofs? How much did it cost and how did you come up with the solution?

I’ve been in this situation. What am I talking about? I’m talking about soundproofing your van’s floor, one of the most worthy investments that you could ever make. That is why in this article I’m going to present to you how to soundproof your van’s or RV’s floor.

What options do you have?

Depending on your budget, you do have some different options to do this. I highly suggest you use quality materials. Although it is going to be a little more expensive, it is worth it. Why? Because it is not as bad as you think. Don’t forget that you are only soundproofing your floor, not your whole van. You don’t need a large amount of material.

The first option would be to lay some carpets on the floor. While this might not be that effective, you still will feel a little difference. Any layer counts when we talk about blocking sounds. This also will make your vehicle more comfortable and give you that welcoming homey vibe.

Make sure you don’t let it get too dirty. Removing all the furniture just to clean the carpets will be a total nightmare. The downside of this method is that you can’t put carpets in front of the car, like above the gearbox, that can give you a lot of noise problems.

For another idea, you can use a very popular material called mass loaded vinyl (MLV). It is used in a lot in arenas and can be a great material for this work. You can buy a big roll for $130. I know, it’s not cheap, but you can use it in other situations. You never know when you need it.

In my opinion, it is worth every penny. I will leave a link for it in case you decide this is the option for you. (https://www.acoustimac.com/soundproofing-massloaded-vinyl-mlv1lb100sf)

Layering 2 materials

The next more effective method would be to layer up 2 materials. That will make your ears a lot happier. The materials to use are a layer of closed-cell foam and a layer of a dense sound barrier. The first one will help insulate the floor while keeping the profile low to allow ply and side steps to be refitted.

The best option for this is going to be the Dodo Super Liner pack because usually 6sq.m of it will do the job for a big van floor. I will also present this material just to make sure you know where your money is going.

The second layer that needs to be applied for maximum effectiveness is a dense sound barrier. This will reduce tire, road, and exhaust noises. I also have a recommendation for this.

The Tecsound Van Flooring Barrier roll has a high density and mass but is extremely pliable. You can apply this even without the previous layer, but, for a better result, you should take my advice for double layering, and you will not regret it. Again, I suggest you buy the 6sq.m just to make sure you don’t run out of it before finishing the job.

If you really feel like going pro with this and have the money to spend, you may try some foam barriers. Not just any though, my suggestion is to go with the Quiet Barrier HD Soundproofing composite. You can find this on almost any website that has soundproof in their name. Just look, and you should be convinced by now.

If you still aren’t, I will describe this and give some install instruction later. You can find this here for about $320. I know, I know. $320 for a sound barrier? Yes, but you get what you pay for. This method is for every demanding human out there that wants a really silent van.

About the materials

What makes MLV a sound blocker material? Its main elements are vinyl and a high mass element that gives the material enough density and acts as a sound barrier. It is very easy to maneuver because it can tear with little effort.

You don’t need any cutting tools or machines. As long as you don’t care how it looks on the floor, you are good to go. Make sure you use some extra layers on the gearbox in order to block the powerful noise.

The Dodo Super Liner is a self-adhesive flexible foam liner that is specially made for sound insulation and vehicle heat. It is also very thin. At only 6mm, it is going to give you amazing results. It can maintain shape under pressure yet be flexible enough to trim easily in many areas of the vehicle.

On top of that, it comes with some very useful standards being resistant to high temperatures, flames, and water. It also has some good reviews, all that for about $80. The link to it.

The Tecsound Van Flooring Barrier has some benefits of giving you high acoustic insulation, and it is soft and very flexible. Also, it provides high sound damping capacity on metal surfaces, and it is easy to handle and adaptable to uneven surfaces. Unlike the MLV, you are going to need a knife or scissors in order to cut it.

It is safe as well. It is cold, heat, rot, and fire-resistant. The price is going to scare you a little, at about $180. Those 2 combined equal $260, but you will definitely forget about loud noises. (source)

The Quiet Barrier HD is a very thin and flexible composite that is guaranteed to fit anywhere if cut well. This will eliminate any medium to even loud noise that your van usually gets when on the road. If you need a thick, strong, and very effective soundproofing material, you just found it. You can compare this to any other material, and you will notice why you paid $320 for it.

How does Quiet Barrier HD work and how to install it?

Although it is a very simple procedure, don’t be alarmed, it will give you the wanted results. The composite blocks the noise from one area to the next, like in the next image

As you can see, the noise source will hit the barrier and return to the space of origin. It will not absorb the sound and give you a lower decibel level, but, instead, it will reflect the noise.

To install, you are going to need a utility knife, tape measure, caulking gun, and a pencil.

1. Measure your van and all the parts you need to cover with the tape measure.
2. Use the pencil and mark the material. Cut in so the pieces fit the parts you measure in the first step.
3. Mark lines around the perimeter of the surface where each piece is supposed to fall based on your layout.
4. After the material has been laid out, glue each piece individually using PL Polyurethane Construction Adhesive.
5. After panels are installed, seal the seams where the pieces meet using the caulking gun.

And that’s it! Although the sound will not be completely blocked, this is the best you can get. You should be the one to decide if that much money is worth it.

Why should you soundproof your vehicle?

The number one reason why most people do this is, of course, because of the very annoying noises. Also, it improves the sound quality inside the cabin. However, you should know from the beginning that you can’t eliminate all sound. You can’t even do that to a basement, which is not mobile, so it is basically impossible to soundproof an RV.

If you do want some great results, you should consider soundproofing your whole van. Noise sources on a vehicle usually come from the hood, gearbox, panels, floor, license plates, and/or tail lights. However, the floor usually will produce the most noise because it is very close to the road. That is why it isn’t worth investing in soundproofing your whole van if you want just some basic results.

You can also get 2 in 1 service doing this. Obviously, soundproofing implies adding some materials that will reduce the noise you will hear inside the car. These materials also block some of the cold air drawn up from under the van. So not only you will get better acoustics in the car, you will save gas as well by not using as much heat.

Conclusion

Overall, there are plenty of methods for different prices you can choose from, depending on how effective you want it to be. My advice is to go for a medium-priced material because it will do its job.  It might be not as good as a premium composite, but you will feel the difference.

You don’t have to spend hundreds of dollars unless you live in one of those vehicles. Now, I want to hear your opinion as well. What method did you choose and how effective it was? How did you think about it?

You can use something as simple as a basement. Before you do that though, you have to make sure you won’t bother anyone from the house, so, in the next lines, I’m going to tell you how to soundproof a townhouse basement.

Introduction

There are a lot of ways you can do this, but before you get up from the bed and get to work, you need to make a quick plan. One of the most important things in soundproofing a room is budgeting.

Because you choose your basement, the price will not be too high and you can invest in some quality, specially-made materials. Why is that? In a basement, the only area you will usually need to soundproof is the ceiling.

Usually, the ceiling in a basement is only bare rafters. That allows a lot of sounds to be transmitted both ways, up and down. In our everyday life, we only come across 2 types of noise: airborne and impact noise.

For example, a guitar-playing or a conversation from upstairs are both airborne noises. On the other hand, footsteps or earthquakes are impact noises. The goal is to make a room that is very quiet from the inside and outside.

Basic principles

The basic principles of soundproofing your basement are:

• because the sound propagates in waves of energy, you will need to stop the waves from advancing in order to stop the sound
• make the sounds go around corners to lose energy
• use some dissimilar materials
• decouple the room from the main structure

Some of them are more costly than others, and I suppose you came here because you are on a budget. Usually, wealthy people just go to a specialized website and order all the products from there and even call some workers to install them.

Money makes people very lazy, and you definitely don’t want that. Firstly, I’m going to present to you some really cheap and fast methods, then I’m going to tell you about the more complicated, but more efficient, methods.

Cheap methods

The first method that came in my mind may seem silly, but it actually works in case you just wanted a quiet room where you can relax. The method is laying some carpets or moving them in order to stop some simple noises, like footsteps and TV sounds coming into the basement.

The biggest advantage of this method is that most people already own carpets, and it’s just a matter of some physical work. If you don’t, they are really cheap and easy to order, maybe you even can customize them.

The thicker they are, the more effective they will be. It’s a really good solution of stopping impact noises, and, after all, they’ll make your house prettier. The bad news is that it will not prevent noise from leaking outwards in case you wanted to create a studio or practice with your band, but we will get to that later.

The second option may seem obvious, but I am amazed at the number of people that don’t know this easy trick. Go in your basement and look on the ceiling. You might not even know about them, but there is a chance your ceiling has gaps. What do these gaps do? They allow sound to fly through there.

Sealing them is not hard and expensive at all. You can use something as simple as caulking seals, and you definitely will observe the improvement. You can buy those on Amazon for about $10. If you decide to ignore the holes, not even the priciest methods will stop the sound completely.

Another easy method would be moving your furniture. You are probably asking yourself right now: how in the world is that going to help me?

Let me help you answer that. Go in your basement and make a loud sound like screaming or playing your guitar at a really high volume, and have one more person in the room above it.

That should easily indicate the areas where the most sound is propagated. All you have to do then is move your chunky furniture there. Trust me, it will make a huge difference. That costs 0 money.

However, it depends on your loudest sound area. If it is in a corner, jackpot, but you can’t place a closet in the middle of the room just to make the basement quieter.

More effective ways

If you want something more effective, you can try soundproof panels, which you can find on the internet. The price may shock you a little, but fear not, it isn’t as bad as you think.

Remember, you are in the basement. The only part you worry about is the ceiling. You will also notice there are a lot of types of panels. I will tell you about the most popular ones.

Soundproofing egg crate

Burton Acoustic’s panels, which are soundproof foam panels (check price on Amazon), are your best friends with this method. You can find them on Amazon for about $35 per pack, and the pack has 4 pieces. As you can see from the images, this is the professional gear that studios use for soundproofing. They are very light as well, just under 2 pounds (about 900 grams), which means you can even tape them on the ceiling. Just make sure you use the right tape.

MusiQ Resource’s RESON8

Another great product is MusiQ Resource’s RESON8 foam (check price on Amazon) if you want to spend a little less money. It’s not as effective as the earlier foam but still does its job.

It even comes with an amazing feature: peel and stick. This will also save the money you were going to spend on tape because it does exactly what you think. You just peel off the material, and it will stick to the ceiling.

Even if it isn’t that effective, it does work better for echo reduction if you are planning on building a home studio.

The next best option, but also pricier, are the wooden panels from ATS Acoustics (check price on Amazon). They have a really nice design and definitely will add a little style to your boring basement. However, make sure you mount them really well, you don’t want to wake up with such a hard block smashing on your head. They need to be affixed to the ceiling.

What are the advantages of these options? This is one of the most effective ways to stop noise from leaking outwards, reduces echo, and also will make a song recorded in there sound angelic. With the right person singing, of course.

Acoustic Panels

The downsides of those are the sound that will leak inward, and, of course, the price.

Special materials

One of the best materials you can use for an almost completely soundproof basement is insulation. You can even use regular ceiling insulation, but once you get some acoustic insulation, you will feel the full difference, even though they are the same thickness.

Soundproofing with Mineral Wool Panels

The one that I recommend is Mineral Wool Insulation from Roxul (check price on Amazon). It is really easy to mount as well, just cut the insulation panels so they can fit the joist cavities. Then just press them in between the joists.

You should keep in mind that the insulation needs to be light, not jammed, and make sure you don’t let it be too tight to the ceiling.

The next material you should consider is MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl). It is really popular and used in a lot of workings. What makes MLV a sound blocker material? Its main elements are vinyl and a high mass element that gives the material enough density and acts as a sound barrier.

How to install MLV

There isn’t much to say about the installation itself because it is really easy. The disadvantage of the material is that it requires 2 people to install properly. So, if you are looking to surprise your wife when she gets home, you are going to need to call a friend.

You can even ask a kid for help because the only thing that the second person should do is just holding the mats in place. You can start installing it in any corner but always watch out so the sheets are straight along with the ceiling.

There are some tips you should keep in mind when doing this in order to make sure everything stays in place. Place some fasteners every 10 inches or less, so the MLV will stay there. Try to end all seams on joists as well. Whenever the seams fall on the joist, you can add a strip of vinyl.

You should always apply MLV directly to the ceiling joists and under the drywall when possible. Don’t start ruining your basement by destroying the drywall if it is already installed. If there is no other way, you should attach materials directly on top of it.

A quick reminder for those who really care about the design of their basement, you should consider that this material comes in black only. If you are trying to make a colorful and happy looking basement, my advice is to use another method.

Conclusion

Overall, there are plenty of ways you could turn your basement into your childhood dream. However, I repeat, you should first consider how effective you want the soundproof basement to be and how much money you are willing to spend.

If you want an effortless method that is going to make your basement 100% soundproof, I’m afraid I am going to disappoint you. There is no such thing.

Although with some quality materials, a little sweat, and some dollars spent, you can nail a very nice project. What was your experience with your basement? Share your story with us so you can help others with their work!

Traveling around the world and admiring architecture can be pretty amazing. Towns are spruced up by the sight of terraced houses, and they photograph well. Yet, living in a house where you share walls with others has its ups and downs.

The perks of living in a terraced house

First off, let’s see what a terraced house is. It is the construction of identical houses built in a row with shared walls between them. Originating in Europe, the Brits call them terrace houses, while in the US you usually hear the terms townhouses or row houses.

The drawback of having a home with shared walls is the noise. Regardless of how old or new the construction is, sooner or later you will suffer from neighbor’s noise.

Where’s the noise coming from?!

You cannot always blame it on the next door neighbors. Other factors contribute to the nuisance:

• Design and structure of the building
• Squeaky floors and/or staircases
• Pipework that travels through the walls
• Heating systems that make a lot of noise when working

How does noise travel!?

Whether through a liquid, solid, or gas, sound needs a carrier to move. It vibrates against that carrier and gets heard next door.

The more layers of material it has to travel through, the fainter it will come on the other side. Thus, if you want to suppress the sound coming through the shared wall or walls, you need to add layers.

How can noise pollution affect your health!?

In time, you’ve probably gotten used to the noise coming from your wall-sharing neighbors. You might even tolerate it to some degree. But research shows that, along the way, noise can produce health issues.

Living surrounded by constant or intermittent noise correlates with:

• Higher risk of heart disease – blood pressure increases and the heart is under a lot of stress.
• Hearing problems- we can only deal with a certain range of sounds. Exposure to loud and constant sounds cause damage to our eardrums.
• Sleeping disorders – noise causes stress which leads to poor sleep, irritation, and fatigue.

Prevent the unwanted effects of noise pollution and ensure a comfortable atmosphere in your terraced home. Soundproof it.

Now, your party wall(s) can have different structures. This means different soundproofing approaches:

Brick or block layer walls covered with plasterboard – You need to add a structure between the actual wall and the plasterboard. Then, you fill it in with insulation material. *You might lose some room space due to the extra layer of insulation.

Hollow stud structures – You already have the space needed to add either mineral wool, fiberglass, or foam insulation.

Another option if the noise is bad – build a new wall that is completely separated from the existing party wall. You’ve guessed it, this one is trickier! It reduces the size of your room, and it is more expensive. Plus, the process takes longer and to get insulation between the two walls is not easy.

No matter the situation, you need to cancel the noise one way or another. So let’s start off with the basic principles of soundproofing.

Principles of soundproofing a wall

Understanding the basic principles of soundproofing can ease you into the process. There are 5 principles to consider: mass, absorption, conduction, mechanical decoupling, and resonance.

1. Mass – the denser the layer, the better the absorption of sound. To tick the box for this principle, you need to buy a very dense plasterboard. Another trick is to use more than one layer provided you have space.
2. Absorption – basically, something to absorb the sound frequencies. If the party wall is decoupled, the insulation will be more effective. Otherwise, if the wall has a stud structure, the effect of the insulation will not be so great. You can use foam, mineral wool, or fiberglass to trap the noise.
3. Conduction – refers to the vibration of solid objects when sound travels through. This is what makes the noise pass gently from the neighbor’s house into yours. A wall that has studs covered by plasterboard will favor the transmission of sound.

Plumbing and Flanking Noise soundproofing

Aside from people next door, you may also have to deal with flanking noise. That is noise coming from within the wall like the plumbing.

1. Mechanical decoupling – best way to reduce sound conduction. The most effective soundproof walls are those that leave no room for sound to travel, but it is not enough to ensure mechanical isolation alone. Simply decoupling a wall will cancel mid and high frequency sounds. Yet, low frequencies will still get through. You must satisfy at least one other principle of soundproofing for effective results.
2. Resonance – a well-insulated wall will still resonate at the right frequency of sound. It will cancel the voices, but the sound of a bass will be able to get through. This happens because low frequencies can make the components of the wall vibrate even so. This is how to address the issue:

• Make sure there is plenty of mass inside the wall and plenty of air. The mass reduces the vibration and the air absorbs the noise.
• Damping reduces resonance and conduction by redirecting and trapping the sound.

Hopefully, you now have an idea about soundproofing and how it works. The next step is to shop around for materials and make an inventory of our tools.

Materials for soundproofing

• Framing materials/struts – you need to build a frame for your insulation material of choice;
• Insulation material – fiberglass, mineral wool, or spray foam;
• Green Glue Noiseproofing Compound – it is an effective noise cushioning material. It goes a very good job and is easy to use. Read more about it here. *You can use other products of choice, this is only a suggestion!
• Green Glue Sealant – used it to seal the gaps between the isolation and the floor, ceiling, and other walls if the case. Here is more info on it. *Optional
• Plasterboard – 2 layers to better hold the insulation material;
• Screws for the plasterboard

Things to consider:

* The number of materials needed varies on your needs, wall size, and thickness of soundproofing.

**Green Glue is not available everywhere. Many suppliers don’t carry it, but you can buy it online. If not, use substitutes like glues, silicones, resins, etc. You can also skip it and add more insulation.

Tools for soundproofing

• Caulk gun for the Green Glue
• Drill
• Rock knife
• Masking tape
• Ruler
• Safety equipment – face mask, gloves, and glasses. *Use them at all times, safety first!

Now it is time to get your hands dirty and prepare for some inevitable frustration.

Steps to soundproofing your wall

1. Start by building the frame for the soundproofing material. Use the struts/wooden poles to frame the wall that you want to insulate

To meet the mechanical decoupling principle, you can leave a small gap between the wall and the frame. It will decrease the potential of sound transmission.

To protect the floor, use the masking tape/duct tape.

Position the frame making sure you keep it straight, in line with the marginal walls and ceiling.

Fix the frame by gluing or screwing it on the lateral sides.

If you don’t want to drill holes in your floor, use some spacers.

1. Add the insulation material

Measure and cut the material to size or spray foam as needed. The frame you made should contain the layer of material.

If you use fiberglass, make sure to wear the protective gear at all times. It is very dangerous if it reaches your eyes, lungs, or skin.

3. 1. Add the first layer of plasterboard

   Measure and cut to size so that it covers the entire wall. If the wall is wide, use multiple pieces.

   Attach the layer and screw it to the wooden frame.

   Use the Green Glue sealant to fill in all the gaps. This way no path will remain open for the sound to get through. The sealant must dry for 24 hours.

   1. Add the second layer of plasterboard

   Measure and cut to size to fit the first layer.

   Have some fun now! Put the Green Glue all over the plasterboard and attach to the other layer while still wet.

   Screw the two layers of plasterboard together.

   1. *Optional – use the sealant to fill the seams between the two layers of plasterboard

   DONE!

   You can now breathe with relief; although, you’ve finished the job only from a soundproofing perspective. To make the house nice looking again, some texture and paint will do the trick. But, by now, you can call it a day and call someone to take care of the visual aspect.

   Other tips to keep the noise out

   Aside from soundproofing the shared wall(s), you can use these methods to reduce noise pollution in your home:

   • Furniture – place more pieces of furniture on the shared wall. The sound will have to travel even more layers of material.
   • Rugs – absorb the noise coming through the floor. Maybe you have downstairs neighbors as well!
   • Windows – better sound canceling windows make a difference. Add a pair of thick curtains and you’re golden.

   All in all, if you don’t feel like jumping into a major project like this one, get help from an expert. Terraced houses, although a sight for sore eyes, can become quite stressful. When you have the sensation that your neighbor is living with you, then it is time to insulate!

   Happy soundproofing!

There are many sources of plumbing installation noises. In order to fix them, we need to understand why they occur. After we understand the root cause of the noise, we can move ahead and apply some basic fixes some times. Other times, extensive work is required like soundproofing the whole room or adjacent rooms.

There are two types of fixes based on timing: pre-construction and post-construction. If you are a cautious person and you are here just for the pre-construction tips, I have good news. You won’t spend a lot of money to soundproof plumbing installations because you can design the construction well enough from the beginning.

Post-construction soundproofing is usually more expensive as you can’t just move the central heating unit to another room (cheaply).  But if you are in the construction phase, you can easily place the central heating unit and water pump in your basement.

What we will cover

In the first part of the article, we will look at heating installations and particularly how we can reduce the noise coming from these sources:

• Central heating units
• Central heating unit pumps

Then, we will move to bathrooms and other plumbing installations and we’ll take a look at:

• plumbing pipe knock (as known as ram noise, knock noise, hammering water noise, or banging noises in pipes)
• soundproofing water taps and valves
• soundproofing water flow noises
• reducing noises produced by hydrophores
• reducing water falling noise in bathrooms and toilets

So, as you can see, we have a lot of ground to cover so pay close attention, but feel free to move to the next section you are interested in. These are very basic ideas and don’t make up for a full tutorial. However, by using this information, some common sense, and basic soundproofing principles described in other posts, you can have good insights on how to soundproof the thing you are interested in.

In order to apply these soundproofing tips, you need to know some things about plumbing installations or have some time to figure them out, but first things first.

Soundproofing Heating Installations

Soundproofing a central heating unit

So, you are here because you want to find out how to soundproof your central heating unit. Reducing the noise produced by central heating units, mainly combustion ones like gas, wood, petrol, etc., is done in most cases by installing noise interference attenuator systems. These can reduce the noise level by 10-20 dB on the most annoying frequencies.

Warning, some tech ahead:

Noise interference attenuator systems consist of two channels of different lengths, L and L/2, which together force the noise to cancel each other.

Reduction of noise in the case of boilers, for example, is done by avoiding direct connections between the boiler and the rest of its installation or other elements. This is done by installing a floating floor in the boiler room.

Apartments

If we talk about apartments, central heating units must be installed as far as possible from rooms (mainly bedrooms). Placing them further from rooms makes the most sense economically speaking. It’s much cheaper to place them far then to soundproof the adjacent rooms. If you can install it far from often used rooms such as living rooms, you are set. Moving them to a further room is also a solution which sometimes can be implemented cheaper than soundproofing the adjacent rooms.

Other ways to soundproof your central heating unit

There are other ways to reduce the noise, although not as effective. The first one is to install the central heating unit on shock absorbers or vibration isolation mounts. These can reduce the vibration that is propagated through the walls. Also, it will prevent some airborne noise if the central unit is vibrating a lot and it’s mounted directly on a rigid wall.

Another way is to build an enclosure around the central heating unit. Building an enclosure around the unit can reduce the airborne noise if it’s sealed properly. Be aware! Central heating units are very dangerous as the risk of fire and explosion is high. Whatever you do, consult with an expert in central heating units. The materials must be fire-resistant/fireproof to avoid a disaster.

Reducing the airborne noise in the central heating unit’s room without the enclosure is quite impossible. An ultimate solution is to buy a similar central heating unit with a lower noise level (less dB). This is not a cheap solution either.

Quick tips

• Place the central unit far away from quiet rooms
• Install arrestors or shock-absorbing mounts
• Build an enclosure for the central heating unit filled with sound-absorbing materials like rock wool or mineral wool
• Install a floating floor
• Install a quieter central heating unit

Soundproofing pipes noise

Using pumps in a normal setting and within the manufacturers’ limits effectively diminishes the hydraulic shocks and eliminate almost all effects of turbulence and cavitation to the maximum amount possible.

Using pumps with l0w RPM (rotations or revolutions per minute) or speeds under 1000 RPM is, although more expensive, a more advantageous solution. That’s because these pumps have a smaller intake hose and lower displacement speed. These two factors combined result in much lower noise under normal circumstances.

The connection between the pipes and pipeline network is made by using rubber sleeves with metal fittings. These should be such designed in order to absorb the water pulsations. Absorbing these pulsations will result in a much lower noise level.

Also, a final tip on pipes noise is to balance rotative parts of the pump perfectly. Otherwise, they will generate a lot of noise.

Moving on to the bathroom and other plumbing installations

Quick Tips

• Use low RPM pumps
• Use the pumps in normal conditions
• Connect it to the pipelines with rubber sleeves with metal fittings
• Check the balance of the rotative parts

Reducing noise in plumbing installations

The knocking noise in pipes

Air Chambers prevents hammer noises in pipes

The “knock shot” or “hammer noise” phenomenon occurs in closed pipes when the fluid is broken or accelerated in a very short time due to the rapid closure of the valves or the shutting down of a circulation pump. This phenomenon is also known as water hammer noise or just banging noise in pipes.

This is manifested by the rapid propagation of overpressures and depressions that cause damage inside the system along with pipes as well as noise.

Because of this, the shock absorber must be located near monocomando batteries, electrodes, spherical valves, etc. to prevent the negative effects that these devices might cause when closed quickly.

How does the knocking phenomenon, also known as water hammer noise occur?

In hydropower installations, the knock noise phenomenon or water hammer noise occurs as a result of the rapid closure of a pipe on the side of equipment such as monocomando batteries, electrodes, ball valves, etc. The quickness of the maneuver induces a disturbance in the water pressure which spreads inside the pipes in the form of overpressure waves.

The disturbance starts from the closed element (eg. tap, valves), climbs upstream, has repercussions on other equipment or pipe elbows of the circuit, and returns downstream, damping progressively. The overpressure will; therefore, add to the existing pressure in the pipelines, causing the following inconveniences:

• pipe breakage
• tanks and flexible connections
• the bonding of joints
• welding joints and sanitary items
• damage to the cutting, retention and adjustment devices
• high noise level and strong vibrations in both the piping and the structure.

Overpressure is influenced by multiple factors that make the phenomenon difficult to replicate in the laboratory:

• the closing time of the equipment
• length, diameter, and tubing material
• water speed

The animation below presents this phenomenon in an easy to understand way:

The solution

Using shock absorbers like rubber mounts is the best way to prevent knock noises.
The use of shock absorbers against water hammer noises is suggested as it can reduce the noise level produced by this phenomenon.

Also, for reducing the noise and vibrations in such cases, satisfactory results can be obtained if you install an air tube assembly into the main pipeline circuit. This is characterized by compressibility and elasticity which can absorb the shocks and noises very well and prevent sending them further into the circuit.

In some cases, you can replace the air tube assembly with a metallic tube closed at one end with a 1 1/2″ (inches or 3.8 cm) and length of about 5.9 feet (or 1.8 meters). This must have taps at both ends in order to drain the water.

Another method to reduce these banging noises in pipes is to connect the pipes using elastic materials.

Quick Tips

• Install an air chamber
• If air chamber is installed, close the main valve, open all the taps, and let them remain open for 1 minute. Then open the main valve again. This operation should clear the air chamber if it’s filled with water.
• Connect the pipes using elastic materials (like rubber mounts)

Reducing the taps noises

Taps can produce very annoying noises. Soundproofing the taps is rather hard if they are not specially designed for silent operation.

Using low noise taps with the appropriate profiles is the way to go. Also, there are special air chamber silencers or water hammer arrestors that can be placed before the alimentation pipe with an air intake.

These are pretty good and assure a laminar flow, but their efficiency is limited due to the residues that fill the air chamber of water silencers.

The usual standard noise in residential buildings, social, or cultural venues is 35dB at a water flow pressure of 2 atm and a 45dB at a water flow pressure of 6 atm. You can find a good pressure conversion calculator here.

Reducing water flow noise in pipes

In order to obtain the lowest possible water flow level for a pipeline network, it is required to size the pipeline network sections to the water flow debit that the section requires in order to obtain a good ratio.

The taps should be sufficiently large to allow free flow of water and again, sized to the required flow (debit) of that specific section of the network.

For example, reducing the flow pressure from 6 atm to 2 atm can reduce the noise level by 10-12 dB. This can be realized by interrupting the pipe continuity with an elastic gasket made of rubber or plastic. Another solution is to use a flexible metallic pipe.

The soundproofing efficiency of elastic insertions grows proportional to the frequency of perturbations. Sound dampening that can be obtained by elastic insertions of 4 – 5.9 inches (or 10-15 cm) length and 2 – 4 inches (or 5-10 cm) diameter placed near the tap can be in the range of 6-11 dB. These apply to high frequencies of about 600 Hz.

At low frequencies, the elastic insertion length can be increased up to 17-18 inches (or 45 cm) which can result in 15 dB of sound dampening.

Reducing the propagation of vibrations through metal pipes is higher on plastic pipes or lead pipes than on copper or steel ones. This is especially true on suspended pipework.

A simple way to reduce the noise caused by vibration propagation through metallic pipes by a range of 10-20 dB is to apply some weights or mass on the pipes.

Pipe dampening device

There are some other solutions that you can use. One of them is to install a sound dampening device such as a pipe filled with sand. It sounds a bit odd, I know. Using this technique, you can reduce the noise level by 4 to 8 dB for each pipe. Look at this figure.

Another way is to just wrap them in an enclosure filled with sound-absorbing materials like mineral wool or rock wool.

These techniques are most effective when applying them to the whole pipework or at least on the terminal pipes (the pipes before and inside the room you want to reduce noise in).

Reflection dampening devices, which are in fact variations of sudden changes of direction in the pipe section, can reduce the noise level by 15-20 dB for a simple one and up to 30 to 40 dB for a double reflection dampening device. Take a closer look at these figures.

Quick Tips

• Adjust the water flow to the needs
• Use elastic gasket insertions made of rubber or plastic to interrupt the pipe continuity
• Use flexible metallic pipes
• Wrap the pipe inside sound dampening devices (inside of a pipe filled with sand or filled with sound-absorbing materials (mineral wool, rock wool))
• Changes in direction of the pipe can reduce the vibration and noise propagation as well

Soundproofing a hydrophore

Hydrophore noises are so annoying, but there are ways to reduce them.

The methods to reduce the noise caused by hydrophore installations are mainly focused on reducing the vibrations (or vibration propagation) of water pumps and their engines. If we can reduce the vibrations caused by the water pump assembly, we can almost make those noises disappear.

If you’ve read one of my last posts, I’ve discussed in detail how you can soundproof your water pump cheaply and efficiently. If you want to check that post, click this link here.

But, if you don’t, here are the basics. The hydrophore is “soundproofed” at the base and sides by dampening layers placed between it and the rest of the building.

You can do this by placing them on a concrete block, placing them into a soundproofing box like I discussed in the water soundproofing article, or install elastic sleeves between the hydrophore and the rest of the installation.

The hydrophore equipment needs to be quiet by itself and placed far away from the rooms in the house. If you can’t place it far from the rooms, or it is already placed and can’t be moved, the news is pretty bad for you, sorry. You will need to use some money out of your pocket, and you may be even forced to soundproof the whole hydrophore room.

So, if you have any means of placing it in the basement, that would be awesome. Making sure that the installation is as far as possible from the quiet rooms is the best soundproofing advice for hydrophores.

Quick Tips

• Place the hydrophore far from quiet rooms
• Place the hydrophore on a concrete box
• Wrap the hydrophore inside an enclosure (a box filled with soundproofing materials: rock wool or mineral wool)
• Use elastic sleeves between the hydrophore and other elements

Soundproofing falling water noise in bathrooms and toilets

This one is even more annoying than hydrophore noises. In order to reduce the noise caused by falling water in bathrooms and toilets, we need to mount elastic connectors between ceramic elements and pipes. We need to soundproof all pipes from the rest of the building and install elastic connectors before taps and valves.

Hotels and Hospitals

When soundproofing hospitals or hotels, you must install silent toilets with a tank that has a valve and a damper. These should be made of plastic materials.

Bathrooms

In bathrooms, you can install elastic rings made of rubber between the drainage gasket and the drain tap. Another way to do this is between the drain tap and soil pipe.

Bathrooms and kitchens should be grouped inside the apartment and placed judiciously inside it. In order to reduce to the maximum the structural noise transmitted to the rest of the rooms, you can install floating floors in these rooms.

The bathtubs and the boiler should be separated from the floor and the side walls with elastic rubber gaskets.

The toilet installation should be installed on elastic gaskets as well and the mounting hooks of the pipe should be insulated from the wall.

All bathroom (and kitchen) taps including shower, bathtub, toilet tank, etc. should be ideally attached to the respective object, not to the wall. This way, we prevent transmitting the noise through vibrations. So, on the sink, install the tap on the sink, not on the wall.

Showers

If we talk about showers, the best way to reduce noise is to use rubber showers. These rubber pipes absorb the noises pretty well and prevent vibration propagation.

In order to soundproof the sink, basins and toilet bowls or tanks, bathtubs, and boilers we need to mount them on shock mounts. These are usually made of rubber. [wiki]

Pipes

You will also need to place elastic gaskets between the mounting point and the building or between the pipe and the hook.

The pipes should be mounted on walls or decks. You can also use dowels insulated with cork from the rest of the building.

The gasket materials you can use are cushion, cork, or rubber. These type of materials can reduce the noise by a factor of 10 to 15 dB.

You need to pay close attention to the construction element to which you attach the pipes. It must not radiate the mechanical energy produced by the attached pipe.

Mounting water pipes and bathroom elements like (above) needs to be done on solid and rigid construction elements. Also, the contact between them and the construction need to be done using a thick elastic rubber mount. For example, between the sink a and the sink bracket or between sink bracket and the wall.

The bathroom pipes should be mounted with a fair number of hooks to massive and rigid elements of the building. These must be mounted at a good distance from the building in order to avoid excessive vibration amplitudes.

Quick Tips

• Use elastic mounts between pipes and other elements
• Use hooks to install the pipes (and keep a fair distance from the wall)
• Do not install tabs, showers, bathtubs, and toilet tanks directly to the wall if possible

Conclusion

Nobody likes annoying plumbing noises. Hearing a neighbor flushing toilet in the middle of the night is not fun. To enjoy this peaceful place named home, we need to “soundproof” these noises as soon as possible.

Remember that in order to effectively reduce the noise, we must apply the measures on all elements of the installation.

One problem I will be providing solutions to in this article is how to soundproof a ceiling fan. A ceiling fan is a handy appliance you find in many homes today. It is not uncommon to find these fans making terrible squeaky noise while working, which most people find annoying. While you can’t completely do away with the fan because of the breeze you get from it, you might find the loud noise too loud to bear. This is especially true if you are trying to get some sleep with the fan on.

First, you need to understand why this is even happening. Why are you fan making so much noise? In most cases, the fan is simply rusty. It could also be that an accumulation of dust is responsible for this.

There are simple ways to get rid of this unpleasant noise in your fan. Sometimes, simple routine maintenance is enough. Other times, the problem might be a bit more difficult to fix, and the noise still persists. In this case, you might need some extra tips and tricks to get rid of the noise for good. Here are some tips you can follow to get around this problem and stop the grinding or clicking noise from the fan in your room.          

How to soundproof a ceiling fan 

As mentioned, there are two basic things you need to do to get your fan fixed. First, there is the regular maintenance of your fan. This second step is about fixing your fan in case of advanced problems in soundproofing it.

Maintaining and cleaning 

Turn off your fan: Simple but true. The first thing to do is to switch off your fan. You don’t have to be a genius to know why you need to do this first. Violently stopping the fan can knock the fan out of balance. That is aside the fact that trying to stop the blades of a working fan without switching it off can harm you.

Clean the blades well: You can make use of a microfiber towel or anything similar to do this. Ensure that the towel you are using is dry. Also, while cleaning the blade, do not apply too much pressure as this can knock it off balance. Dust can be the reason why your ceiling fan is making so many unpleasant noises, thus cleaning it might help solve the problem.

Tighten each blade well: After cleaning the blades, check for loose blades and get them tightened. This is because, in most cases, a loose bolt on the fan can be the source of the noise. Also, you should ensure that you check your ceiling fan blades at intervals. This should be done every 6 months preferably to ensure that they are always well-tightened.

Check the screws that connect the fan to the ceiling mount: The mount connecting the fan to the ceiling can also be the reason for the noise the fan makes. If the screws holding the mount are loose, they can cause a wiggle over time and cause it to squeal.

After carrying out these basic maintenance checks, turn on your fan to see if the problem is gone. However, if the problem persists, it is more advanced. You can check out other solutions as listed below.

How to fix a more advanced problem? 

Ensure you lubricate the crucial parts: With time, a ceiling fan can get old and start rusting. This can be a major problem and cause unpleasant sounds. For efficient lubrication, you might have to disassemble the fan. First, you have to remove the fan motor and find its bearings. Once the motor is removed, you can put the lubricating oil on it. When this is done, rotate the fans a couple of times to disperse the oil effectively.

You then can begin the arduous process of assembling the fan again. This might not be easy. If you think you have issues with doing this part of the job, you can enlist the help of a professional to carry out the lubrication.

In addition to all these, let us also consider the process of soundproofing a duct fan.

How to soundproof a duct fan

A duct fan also can make loud annoying noises after long term use. If this is something you are struggling with, here are some basic tips that can help.

• Create a wooden or cardboard box for it with an opening at the side where the air outlet is.
• Get yourself a speedster speed controller. This allows you to control the speed of the duct fan, thereby reducing the sound.

• Place an insulated duct on both sides of the in-line in between filter and silencer.

 How to soundproof a bathroom extractor fan? 

The first thing to know and remember about dealing with any electrical appliances is always to switch it off before trying to work on them. Ensure that the power is turned off.

• Try reading the manual for tips on disabling your bathroom extractor fan.

• Once it’s disabled, simply slide the spinning wheel off and clean it. Remove all dust on it. You can use a vacuum to remove dust from corners your hands can’t reach.

• Once the spinning wheel is clean, put it back and make sure it fits perfectly; if not get one that fits perfectly. A loose spinning wheel can cause the fan to make noise.

• After all that, you can reassemble everything back and check your bathroom extractor fan.

Conclusion

If these tips do not work, and the problem still persists, you should consider speaking to an expert.

Imagine this. It is Sunday morning, and you’ve gotten over your hangover from partying last night. Your head still hurts a bit, but it is nothing too serious. It is warm and sunny outside, birds are chirping, you stretch and feel the like in heaven. Life is good, right until it comes without a warning. By your house passes a huge lump of steel with wheels, carrying whatever. You pray it will pass quickly, but fate is not so forgiving.

Without warning, it bellows a primal scream that echoes through your head like a mighty chorus of a thousand vuvuzelas. The sound is so powerful and sudden that it immediately burrows through your eardrums and drills into your skull. Your morning is now ruined. Thomas the Tank Engine has come to town.

Don’t you hate it? Well, I do. I like trains, but I hate them for this particular reason aside often being late. And so do you. Then what should you do? No worries friend, I am here to share your lamentation and help you get yourself a good weekend sleeping session.

If you have read my previous articles, you already know that I have already written on the subject of sound-proofing. So what is the point of this article then? Isn’t it the same in the end? No, it isn’t. Try comparing a washing machine to a train and you will get one hell of a migraine. But fear not, for I am here to lend my wisdom to you once again.

Why all the ruckus?

Hate them as we might, but trains are necessary in the end. You would be surprised how many people are unable to spot a giant steel behemoth that rolls towards them in plain sight. Many have died due to this and, as such, most countries require trains to sport powerful horns for safety reasons.

And the faster the train, the longer the sound has to be.

How to stop the train noises right in their tracks? (pun intended)

There are two possibilities to address this issue. There are short-term solutions and long-term solutions.

Short term solutions

These are a bit counter-productive in nature, as they do lower the sound level for a bit, but will not do much in the long run. And, added to that, you will probably go insane from reinstalling them each and every time they fall apart.

Sticking towels/rags underneath the door

The cheapest kind of door sweeps. The fun thing with them is that you won’t have to drill through the door to install them. Just stick them down there and voila. Their disadvantages, compared to the proper door sweeps, are that they will do a poor job in sound-proofing. Plus, you will have to re-adjust them whenever you open or close the door which will promptly make you insane. And, because they are not as dense as proper door sweeps, the sound will still get through them to a significant degree. All in all, buy yourself proper rubber or foam sweeps. They are under $10 and will last you for a very long time.

High-quality carpets

A simple solution would be to get some good quality, thick rugs. Due to how physics works, namely the vibrational nature of sound, even your floors can conduct some of the incoming sounds. The solution is to invest in some thick carpets that will absorb the vibrations passing through the floors.

In the end, however, despite being cheap, short-term solutions will only minimize the incoming train noises. In order to properly stop them from being annoying, you have to invest in some long-term train noise reduction options. And don’t worry, because those solutions, albeit costly, will not only stop train noises but all noises. So rest assured that you are investing in the general future of your household.

Long-term solutions

Door sweeps

This is an old tried and true sound-proofing method. They are cheap, easy to install, and highly reliable in what they do. Even the newest house doors out there can’t be 100% soundproof; they will still have that small gap underneath for movement and for air to flow. Otherwise, they would be sold as walls.

Proper door sweeps are made from DIY soundproof materials. This means that they do their job to a high standard. Due to their flexibility, once you have closed the door, they will automatically fill any gap down there. This means that any sound that will pass through is more likely to enter through the doorknob or the door itself.

Plus, they are really easy to install. All you need is a door, the purchased kit (which comes with everything you need) and some basic tools. They always come with instructions, so nobody will risk accidentally burning the house while screwing a few bolts.

Soundproof industrial curtains

This is another ”fan favorite” and for good reasons. Not only are they relatively cheap as a long-term investment, but they do wonders in combating train noises. You see, soundproof curtains are able to create a loss of 35 decibels at high frequencies, making them an ideal defense against train horns.

This is because they support very heavy layer of material sandwiched between the sound absorption layers. For example, an industrial sound curtain will be made from two panels of quilted fiberglass with a layer of mass-loaded vinyl. Depending on the materials used and the thickness, it can weight from 0.5 to 2.5 lbs per square foot (1 to 6 kg/m²). It is this mass that grants it its sound-stopping power.

Install sound-blocking window panels

Other than the doors and the walls, the quality of the windows is a crucial factor in sound-proofing. Just like a certain operating system asking for constant updates, train noises don’t give a damn about your well-being.

An effective way to tackle this problem (for non-industrial purposes) is to install flexible window panels made from a heavy sound-blocking material.

Double-glazed windows are a commonly used method of sound-proofing your home, albeit a bit costly. Their double-layered design will stop any vibration that would otherwise sneak through the gaps into your home, making them a must-have. They last for a very long time and usually are worth their steep price.

Invest in gypsum walls

Depending on the design and the materials used in the construction of your house, already-existing walls can be made soundproof. This is achieved through a few distinct methods:

Infusion: commonly known as fiberglass insulation or cellulose insulation. It is where the walls are filled with soundproofing foam through specialized hoses, pumps, and machines through holes drilled into the wall. This method is the cheapest of the three and highly recommended for homes where the walls are hollow and easily replaceable. Furthermore, the materials used dry out very quickly, making them a god-send for places with high levels of humidity. This method also is environmentally safe an non-toxic, making it family friendly.

Drywall: most common of them all. I have already touched it in my previous article regarding soundproofing. It is simply a secondary layer of drywall or gypsum wall plastered to the existing wall, thickening it. This is done with an added layer of ”Green Glue” damping compound between the two to strengthen the process. Green glue is a material used as a constrained membrane that converts sound energy into heat.

Paint: for the artist within, there is the solution of soundproof paint. This specially-formulated acoustical paint is a complex compound that can simply be added to your walls. Its effectiveness has been reported to be so great as to reduce outside noises up to 30%. It is made from sound-absorbing resins, fillers, and hollow ceramic microspheres which sound as cool as they are effective.

To apply it, you only need to use a paint roller for the larger areas and angled paintbrushes for the harder-to-reach corners and edges. Acoustical paint dries extremely quickly and possesses superior sound-dampening qualities. For optimal results, you should apply not one, but two coats of paint.

 Creating outdoor barriers 

It’s always the small things that come to help you in life. And soundproofing the interior of the house will not always bring the full, desired outcome. And boy oh boy, you can add up the benefits through previously unthinkable methods.

First of them is raising a fence. Seems stupid right? Because it isn’t. If you have studied physics before, you know how sound works. It is basically vibrations, coming from a vibrating body, through a vibrating medium (air, water), traveling in longitudinal waves. The clue that sits in all of this mumbo-jumbo: it travels. So, if you plaster a fence or a wall in the general direction of the train tracks, some waves will be stopped mid-track. The consequences are minute, but a good chunk of sound will stop before reaching your house. And you need to have a fence, right?

Another fine addition, if you live in a house with a yard, would be to plant bushes, shrubs, and trees. Choose greenery with a dense growth of plants. Those types are the best in urban areas, as they will not only protect you from train noises but from any noise. They don’t offer the soundproofing qualities of a concrete bunker, but they work together with the others to improve life quality. Plant them so that there is not much space between them when they reach maturity.

The best shrubs for soundproofing purposes are Evergreen shrubs. Not only do they look fancy, but they will provide year-long noise reduction. Always choose shrubs and trees with dense branches and leaves.

Keep in mind that you are not just blocking sounds with your lovely garden of green walls; you also are reducing pollution, creating a more aesthetic atmosphere, and reducing pollution. Form and function, all in one.

Highways panels?

Soundproofing panels for highway

You probably saw these on some highways that were near a residential area. They are there to “block” or dampen a bit of the loud noise made by high-speed cars. You probably can’t afford these, but you raise a ticket to the local municipality to install this type of panels in areas where the train noise is not supportable. You never know, you can get lucky and maybe they will do something about it. If you can convince your neighbors to sign a petition, that would be great too.

Conclusion

It is estimated that in order to properly soundproof a room, one must expend somewhere from $500 and up to $4,500. Nobody said that this would be a cheap endeavor. Still, you should expect a price range of $1,000$ to $2000.

Add in the cost of everything you do around the house, and you will quickly notice that this is something to be done as a long-term investment. Do it only if you plan to not move away any time soon.

Try these methods first if the noise is not that bad. But if you can’t sleep well, don’t just stand there, do something about it. Compromising your night sleep is not the right way.

Soundproofing panels can deaden and dampen sounds in many places. There are different types of soundproofing available and which you buy depends on what type of sound you are trying to cover, and what space you are using it for.

Soundproof panels are lightweight and often made from different types of foam. These panels are placed on walls and ceilings in places such as studios, offices, and other places that are used for acoustics.

Soundproofing will eliminate background noises and echoes. This is done by controlling reverberation that happens when sound bounces off walls.

Different types of soundproofing

There are two main types of soundproofing panels: the wedge or ridge design and the egg crate.

Wedge or Ridge Design

The wedge or ridge design is very stylish and can be arranged vertically or horizontally. Often each panel is around one square foot with a thickness of about 1 inch. They come in different colors, so you can match them with your home design and décor. The wedge/ridge design also is very affordable, so if you are low on funds, these are cheap and do the job well. This design can trap noises but won’t distort any of the sounds. These work best in recording studios or where loud music is played.

Egg Crate Foam 

Egg crate foam is a popular choice and has been described as doing a superior job at absorbing sound. This type of panel comes sized at 2.5 inches for extra thickness which helps it to have a very high noise reduction. This type of soundproofing is much larger than the others measuring 4 feet by 2 feet. Going this way can also be cheaper, as they are bigger; therefore, you don’t need as many.

Most times when you order this kind, they will arrive rolled up and surrounded with plastic. You will need to allow a few days for them to fully expand before installing on your walls.

These are very versatile and also can be used for protecting breakables when you are moving. Egg crate foam can be cut to size if need be.
Some low-quality panels can lack in the soundproofing department, and they have jagged edges. You want to look for soundproofing panels with good reviews and those that have clean cut edges.

How do they work?

Soundproof panels are composed of foam and mineral wool. When sound waves travel around the air then hit soundproofing panels, they will vibrate and increase friction around the pores of the fibers.

The vibrations reach a point where there is enough friction created for the conversion of energy to the heat energy, which means there is energy from an object in motion. This type of energy cannot be contained. It dissipates quickly, so there are no sound waves left and no natural sound. Soundproofing panels stop the noise from entering or exiting rooms.

Where can soundproofing panels be used?

There are so many different spaces where soundproofing can be used including:

Dance studios: Dance studios use soundproofing to prevent the sound from leaking into adjoining rooms, and it will also improve the sound quality.

Auditoriums: When using soundproofing here, you can greatly improve your sound quality by lowering the background noise.

Hotels: It is important to provide the guests with a good experience. Soundproofing panels can help to deaden sound and improve your clients’ experience.

Library: Soundproofing a library is a good idea, as it decreases the noise distractions in a place that needs to be quiet at all times.

Condos: Adding soundproofing to condos makes it a simple way to increase privacy by lowering the transmission of such noises from each unit to the next. Soundproofing panels help to boost value to the condos by giving a more private surrounding.

How many soundproofing panels you have within an enclosed area will influence how much of a sound reduction you will have. Soundproofing professionals will come to the place and investigate in order to provide you with the number of panels you will need in order to soundproof the room.

Who can benefit from sound insulation panels?

You are a musician:

A lot of musicians are self-employed and are often practicing at home. Instead of driving your neighbors crazy, install soundproofing inside your home. Add some soundproofing extras for doors, ceilings, and window frames to ensure your neighbors get some peace.
Soundproofing can also help to block out noisy distractions such as trains and noisy highways.

Your own space:

You might have your own home theater, playroom, or den where you like to entertain. By using soundproofing wall panels, you can enjoy your video games and loud action movies without the worry of waking up the newborn baby or annoying the rest of the household. There will be no more disagreements about the noise you are making while trying to enjoy some free time.

Noisy neighbors:

It may not even be you making the annoying noises or late night music playing. If you live in close apartments or units, there often isn’t much wall thickness between both places. It can be hard to relax and enjoy quiet time if your neighbor is going crazy with noise. Soundproofing your walls might be a pain for you and costly as well, but sometimes the peace is well worth the money and time.

Do you live somewhere noisy?

If you live near a train track, loud construction site, or even the subway, then you will know how seriously loud it can be. You can benefit from soundproofing your home if you are getting woken up by jackhammers, sirens, and trains. Say goodbye to these annoying noises and get a good night’s sleep.

There is no doubt that you can benefit from soundproofing your home. It is quite affordable, and there are plenty of professional soundproofing companies out there ready to help you with all your needs.

Don’t suffer from the noise or keep your neighbors up late with your music. Get onto soundproofing your space so everyone can have peace.

Conclusion

Are you sick and tired of not getting enough sleep, are you thinking about installing soundproofing panels in your home?

Soundproofing panels are great for soundproofing as they can deaden and dampen sounds. But it depends on the type of noise and space where they are used. They are definitely not as effective as a fake wall filled with mineral wool, but for sound deadening in studios and noise reduction they can be quite good.